Hot Dry Noodles (Re Gan Mian)

What it is

Wuhan's civic breakfast — re gan mian: alkaline noodles flash-cooked, tossed in sesame paste, soy, pickled beans and scallion oil. The name means 'hot' (served warm, instant) and 'dry' (no soup): Wuhan eats standing, in transit, at 6am.

How to order like a local

Get it from a street counter not a restaurant; price 6-15 CNY. Mix violently the second it lands — the sesame paste seizes as it cools. Add a spoon of the pickled radish and chilli oil from the table jars.

Good to know

It's breakfast and only breakfast — after 10am the good counters are sold out. Pair with a cup of sweet egg wine or soy milk.